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New Sliding Door Window For My Van

I’m super excited to announce that I recently had a new window installed on my van! When I designed my Sprinter’s layout and build, I didn’t think I wanted a lot of windows because any non-insulated opening can bring heat into the van on hot days, as well as allow heat to leave the van on cold days. Therefore, I went with three smaller Tern Overland windows instead, one of each end of the bed and one at the kitchen galley. In the past 3.5 years using my van, I realized that I would love to be able to see the outside views more when I’m inside the van, especially on a cool night or in a place with bugs when I didn’t want the sliding door open. Any time I was in someone else’s van that had a window in the sliding door, I realized what I was missing out on. Another reason to get a window installed was that the wooden panel that was put onto the sliding door during my original van build always rattled when I was driving. From what I’ve been told by a few builders now, this is a common issue with panels on the sliding doors, plus they get loose over time from all the opening and closing of the slider.


Last year, I went to the annual Freedom Vans van gathering here in Bellingham. They are a well-known and reputable van building company and I enjoyed meeting the owners and crew. At that time, I showed them my rattling panel and discussed window installation options. During our conversation, the company owner Tim told me that a wonderful advantage of having a window in the sliding door is the ability to see out while driving. Often when you need to turn into traffic, without a window there you have limited visibility on the right side, so being able to look over your right shoulder and see out that back side window is super helpful. I was also very impressed to learn about all the pros and cons of each after-market window styles and seeing them in action on some the van builds they were working on.

After some deliberation, I decided to go with the AMA Slider with Fly-Screen. I liked the bigger opening that would sit right above my passenger-side cabinet so my cat Maverick could sit there and enjoy the fresh air and view. I also heard that the T-vents on the CRL windows, which are most commonly installed, often break, though they do have the best “unobstructed” view since there’s no big piece sliding within in. I did consider the VWD slider, but preferred the opening to be at the back of the sliding door versus the front. I would say the only downside to the AMA and VWD slider windows is that the part that opens is not flush on the outside, which some people don’t like visually. It also allows for debris to get caught in the cracks, something I’ve already learned living in the forest where pine needles get into everything!

I finally took the plunge to get my window installed earlier this month. The installation only takes a few hours, but my van did have to stay overnight for the glue to set. I was so excited to pick up my Sprinter the next day and see the final result — and I love it! I can’t wait to go on adventures and experience all the views through the new window. Right now the weather isn’t ideal so I do not have any trips planned, but come next Spring, I will taking off to explore, including planned trips to North Cascades National Park, some vanlife gatherings, and hopefully a long road trip to Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and the Dakotas, maybe even Alberta, Canada to check out Banff and Jasper National Parks. If anyone wants to caravan with me on that, please let me know!

On a side note, my buddy Stavros started Nomadic Supply Company a few years ago and I highly recommend them for all van products you may need. They have curated a collection of more than 10,000 of the world’s highest-quality products and donate 10% of their profits to the Sierra Club Foundation and 1% of every sale is donated directly to the Stripe Climate Change initiative. Stavros is an avid vanlifer himself and he’s built out his own van, therefore, he knows what works, what products are good, and which brands have the best quality. I have asked him lots of questions about products over the years and can vouch that his customer service is excellent and many van builders like Freedom Vans order from him. If you like my set up, I suggest ordering the AMA windows from him, or use the links for the other window styles (in this post) if you prefer them better.

Now that the window is installed, I made sure to order an insulated window cover to blackout the window when I’m sleeping in the van, as well as to keep the van cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Since I already have the Sprinter blackout window covers for the front cab and back windows from Quest Overland, as well as their fan cover, I went ahead and purchased the matching Sliding Door Window Cover from this amazing company. Not only do her products fit perfectly with strong magnets holding them up, they are well-constructed in a neutral color, and last for a long time. I am very happy with all the covers I’ve had since 2019, which don’t show any wear and tear, so getting the matching cover from the same company only made sense. If you need good quality blackout window covers, I highly recommend Quest Overland and you can use code “barbrocks5” to save 5% in their shop!
UPDATE: Hally & Ian the founders of Quest Overland sold the company in September 2023 and the new owner Josh is not fulfilling orders, nor replying to emails. I sadly can no longer recommend this company to people unless the new owner gets his business affairs in order and customer service improves.

I would love to hear what you all think of my new sliding door window. If you have the same AMA window, I’m curious to get your feedback on what your experience is with that brand and style. For those of you looking to install a window in your sliding door, I hope this post helps you decide which option is best for your needs. Happy Travels!

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Going From A Bar Rat To A Vanlifer

When my parents died in 2013 and 2015, I realized that I had been wasting a lot of my life at work and drinking at bars. After two failed marriages, I spent my mid-thirties to mid-forties at bars a lot. Drinking was my coping mechanism, a way to get out of the house and be social, forget that I was actually unhappy. I went to the bars 3-6 nights a week, smoking cigarettes and drinking alcohol, bonding with various people (some acquaintances, some friends), many of which were lonely people like myself that were escaping their lives as well. I easily had 5+ drinks/shots each time I went out! It didn’t help that I decided to build a side business in music, booking shows at venues with alcohol. The benefits of doing business in that environment meant lots of free drinks, either the venue hooking me up or people buying them for me. One venue even let me drink free every time I went there, even when I didn’t have a show, and I took advantage of that. I still have a receipt from them that shows my whole tab for the year and then that amount “written off” to a zero balance — I’m pretty sure it was close to $3K! It’s not easy to admit to all this, it is definitely something that I justified to myself thinking I didn’t have a problem. Looking back, I know that this behavior led to many bad decisions, as well as weight gain. Between drinking at bars and shows, going to my day job in hi-tech (often hung over), and sitting on my couch watching tv, I didn’t really do much else. I led a sedentary life. To think that I could have explored all the beautiful areas around me and throughout California during those years is disappointing!

Losing my parents changed me, A LOT! I realized that life was short — I became very aware of our mortality and that one could easily die at any moment. I couldn’t keep going down the same path of destruction. It still took me a few years to fully get out of that cycle, but one thing that changed pretty quick in late 2013 was the amount of time I spent at bars drinking. I stopped being a “bar rat” and going out drinking in excess. That doesn’t mean I stopped drinking, but it was easily reduced by half. Instead of bars, I hosted people at my house, but not nearly as often as I was going to bars. I still sat around and watched tv a lot though, still not going out to explore and enjoy the surrounding nature areas. Then in 2016, I discovered vanlife through a guy I was dating that year. It changed my life forever!

When I first met Jesse and he told me he lived in his van, I thought something was wrong with him — who would want to live in a van intentionally?!? He explained to me that he didn’t want to pay the exorbitant monthly rent in the Bay Area and that by living in the van, he saved 80% of his paycheck, which he put into his retirement savings. He also showed me how the transient lifestyle meant seeing all the beautiful areas around, spending the night by the ocean or in the forest, taking trips on the weekend to some place new. I realized at that moment that there were so many wonderful areas within an hour or two of where I lived that I never visited in the 25+ years I lived there! He also took me to Oregon and Washington on a week long road trip, which really opened my eyes as I had never explored these two beautiful neighboring states.

Even though Jesse and I didn’t work out as a couple, he left an impact on my life. In our 8 months together, I learned a lot from him — how to find overnight spots, what apps/websites to use, what to do and not do, and other valuable tips. Jesse also encouraged me to travel solo since I was convinced that traveling with a partner or friend was the only way I could travel. I knew that I wanted to continue this lifestyle, so I started researching vans and RV’s to see what I could afford. About a month and a half after our breakup, I bought myself a 20 ft. Thor Majestic 19G Mini-Class C RV for $25K. I started exploring California and learned that traveling by myself with my cat Maverick was actually quite fun.

Being that I’m super social, I set up my road trips with stops where I could visit various friends along the way, plus I went to a lot of local meetups with vanlife enthusiasts and nomads to make friends and learn from them. I also learned about bigger vanlife gatherings in Oregon and Southern California, which I started to attend to meet like-minded individuals and fully immerse myself in this wonderful community. My first Descend on Bend in 2018 was so impactful, spending three days in the Oregon high desert with 1000 other part-time and full-time vandwellers, enjoying food, drinks, activities, music, and bonfires together! Then in January 2019, I went to San Diego to a monthly meetup on Fiesta Island, where I met the ladies that started the Sēkr app and continued to grow my vanlife connections. Some of the people I met at these events have become close friends and some of the nicest people I have met in my life!

In 2019, I decided to sell my RV as I didn’t really love driving it. The over-cab bed was small and bit claustrophobic, the vehicle wasn’t very aerodynamic and shook a lot while driving, and the gas mileage was terrible at around 10 mpg. Seeing so many great custom build vans at all the events I went to and hearing how much easier they were to drive, I decided that I wanted a van of my own, especially knowing what I needed and didn’t need in the small space from the RV. I researched the various types of vans, as well as all the van builders I could find on the West Coast, and after 6 months of manifesting the van of my dreams, I found a 2019 Mercedes Benz Sprinter cargo van with all specs I wanted and had it custom built out in late 2019/early 2020. That van was ready for pick up in early April 2020, right after COVID-19 hit. I encourage you to read my van build story for more details on that!

In the last 6.5 years, I have traveled over 40K miles solo with my cat Maverick. I’ve been to 7 states, mostly on the West Coast, and continue to attend as many vanlife gatherings as I can. I love the freedom of traveling in my home-on-wheels, being able to spend the night in beautiful places, and exploring nature! Instead of sitting at home watching tv or going to a bar drinking, I drive to new places, learn about the history, and walk around to see as much as possible. I hike trails to waterfails, through old growth forests, and along oceanside cliffs, I take dips in watering holes, hot springs, and rivers, and I swim in lakes, bays, and ocean waters. I enjoy parks, beaches, museums, and local restaurants and shops. I meet people everywhere I go and have wonderful conversations with them. I feel like I’ve learned so much, met so many interesting humans, and overall I’m leading a much healthier lifestyle. What a difference a decade can make once you make better choices of how to spend your time! I have a lot of fond memories of my bar days — I’ve hosted and managed some talented bands/artists and made some great friends in the process — but I don’t miss the excessive drinking and side effects of that lifestyle. I don’t believe in having regrets since all the decisions in my life have shaped the person I am today (whom I’m very happy with), but I can tell you that the quality of life I have now is dramatically better, and sometimes I wish I had discovered it sooner. I know my parents in heaven approve of the changes I made and they walk with me every day, with every step, in this amazing life I have!

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My Gray Tank Valve Failure

BrokenValve.jpg

In January 2021, my gray tank valve stopped working. This was quite disappointing since I’ve only had my van for 10 months and it had less than 8K miles on it. Luckily the valve was stuck in the open position, which meant my gray tank would still drain, so I decided to wait until I could address it at a later time.

As luck would have it, I met Bill Franz from Franz Customs and he was able to take care of this issue for me in May 2021. I would like to thank Bill for the following detailed description of why my gray tank valve failed and what he installed instead, which is a much better solution. I am posting this directly from the email he sent me with some minor grammatical fixes, so the rest of this post is his expert analysis, which I hope helps others who are installing a gray tank valve do it the proper way with the right kind of valve.


I do not use Solenoid valves on mobile water systems for 3 main reasons:
1) Solenoid valves will eventually have operational problems if debris/sediments are in the water.
2) Electric solenoid valves will have a run time limit (duty cycle) because they use a coil. Coils will generate heat the longer they are energized (valve open in your case).
3) They are not as reliable as Ball valves because of 1 and 2 above, plus there are more moving parts that could fail.

The use of a Solenoid valve is the real failure. To understand what went wrong, you need to use the diagram below. The diagram is not an exact match to the valve you had, but close enough to use for explanation. Your grey tank drain is connected to CLOSED side, which is the left side of the diagram below.

This is how it works:
1) You push the button to energize the coil on the top of the valve.
2) When the coil is energized, it creates a magnetic field that pulls the plunger up.
3) Water then flows from the left side to the right side of the valve body (input/output). This flow is the OPEN on the right side of the diagram.
4) To stop the flow you push the button again, the coil is de-energized, the magnetic field is lost and the plunger drops back down to close the valve.

Problem 1:

The coil is operating intermittently. When I tested the resistance across the coil, the reading would be stable and then randomly spike up and down, which explains the intermittent behavior. The coil also appears to have burn spots, or spots that are overheating. Most manufactures add a layer of protective coating around the coil winding to provide a layer of insulation from moisture or other environmental contaminates. This coating is generally uniform around the entire coil area. When coils overheat they will start to melt this coating to the point where it will start to run, like paint does when you spill it or put too much on a wall. If you look at the photo below on the left closely, you will notice that the color looks smeared and crispy, which is an indication of burning. This is generally the coating on the coil heating up to the point that it liquifies and starts seep through the insulation. I can’t say with certainty that it is burning because I don't have the same valve to compare the coil. However, I have seen coils start to take on this appearance when they are overheating and starting to burn. US Solid make really good valves so I doubt they would have Solenoid Valve coils leave a factory looking like yours. There is a cover on the coil, however, it is only held on by a single nut, and water can work its way up into the coil area, so enclosing the valve is needed when it is used outside.

The coil can also burn due to heat if the valve is on longer than the rated duty cycle. In the most basic terms duty cycle is the amount of time the valve can be on, before the coil starts to heat. The valve you had is not rated for 100% duty cycle (on all the time), so coil burning could have easily started to happen if the valve was left on for a long period of time. Because you don't have an indicator light you would not know if the drain valve was left on. Any electrical device that does not have a duty cycle of 100% needs to have a method for indicating it is on. Actually, any electrical device that generates heat should have an indicator light to let the user know it is on. In this case the valve coil is not large enough to create enough heat to start a fire, but a burnt coil is a valve that no longer works.

A coil can also burn if water gets into the coil and creates a short. A coil is a long piece of wire that is coiled, this coiling creates resistance, and resistance creates heat. If water is introduced into the coil it can create shorts in the coil, which add more resistance and burn the coil. The valve was mounted at a low point under your van and water could easily make it onto the coil housing.

I looked up the specifications for the valve you had and I found it has an IP65 rating, however, if the valve is mounted outdoors it needs to be enclosed. On the same page is an overheating warning and a statement that says the valve is NOT 100% duty cycle, which means it can’t be left on or it will overheat.

ValveCoil.jpg

Problem 2:

The photo above on the right is the outbound side of the valve. You will notice hair is lodged inside. Both the inbound and outbound port had hair and sludge lodged between them. This stopped the plunger from operating correctly, which explains why you saw the dripping and thought your tank was empty. This happened because it is hung up on the input side, so the hair never made it out of the valve. When this happens, the valve will start to collect debris like a spider web. A ball valve will not do this because the design uses a simple hole in the ball.

I installed a US Solid Stainless Steel ball valve with auto return and I added a water proof connector to it.
* The valve will return to the closed position if power is lost.
* The electronics are sealed so it is splash resistance from all angles.
* It has a very low power consumption when fully open (no need to worry about accidentally leaving it on).
* Full flow when open so it would take something at least 1/2” to clog the valve.
* It is stainless steel and I did this because it will resist corrosion better than brass will. Corrosion comes in many different forms when dealing with drains and it was about 10 bucks more than brass.

The diagram below is what a ball valve looks like, which you now have an electric version of. Instead of the handle, there is a small motor that turns the stem. When you depress the button, the motor turns the ball and the water flows through the 1/2” hole in the ball. This is a simpler design over the Solenoid valve and is less likely to clog when minor debris are in the water. There is also nothing for hair to snag on like there is in a Solenoid vale. Some ball valves have a smaller diameter hole, and this is generally done in pressurized systems, but you don’t need a controlled flow because your tank is a gravity drain for dumping water. This is the portion when I reference full flow. You have a 1/2” drain pipe so water will flow as fast as 1/2” can dump the water.

BallValve.png

Below is a picture of your old valve on the input side (water entering from your tank). This is where the valve makes the 90 degree turn up, which uses water pressure to help move the plunger up when the valve is opened. You can’t see the plunger portion but the hair becomes lodged in that top areas.

OldValve.jpg

Photos below are the cover over the coil. The picture on the left is what it looks like installed and this is also the same position it was mounted under your van. The picture on the right kind of shows the open area under the coil cover where water can works its way in. On a really rainy day or wet road, the underside of your van becomes a hurricane and water will eventually make its way into the valve cover. There is no seal, so simply removing the bolt on the top allows the cover to be removed.

Valve.jpg

Below is your new ball valve installed. The blue pipe is 1/2” PEX that is connected to the ball valve with a 1/2” 90 degree shark bite connector. That white portion on the picture above is called a reducer sleeve. This sleeve reduces the 3/4” fitting on the valve to 1/2”, so the PEX 90 they used would work. I had questioned why a 3/4” valve was used when the connection is 1/2” at the tank. Flow will not move faster than the 1/2” can move water, so at face value a 3/4” valve does nothing to help water move faster. However, this gets thrown out the window when a Solenoid valve is used because that 90 degree turn on a Solenoid valve changes flow rate. That blue area on the valve is where the electronic components are and it is sealed. The white cable is your positive and negative wires up to the water proof connecter. I also made sure that I mounted the valve so the wire has maximum protection.

NewValveInstalled.jpg

One final note about this configuration. I recommend a manual valve to be installed between that blue pipe. I would also recommend that a light weight plate be installed to protect the valve and pipe. There is a risk of something possible ripping the valve out along with that pipe. Think about some of the roads you have gone down or shit that you have heard hit the bottom of any vehicle you have driven. If you go off road, you should definitely add a protection plate, aka skid plate. Its an easy modification that will not cost an arm and a leg.


Bill is going to be installing that manual valve for me soon, plus I’m going to ask him to install the skid plate as well.

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